Shimenguan (石门官) Gorge

Location: West of Dali, Yunnan Province, China

Approximate Elevation: 6890 ft./2100m

Activities: Trad climbing, sport climbing, bouldering, top roping, hiking

Potential: Long multipitch trad, big wall

 

Full mountain page on SummitPost

 

Shimenguan (石门官)is a massive river gorge outside of the southern Chinese city of Dali (大理) in Yunnan province. Though climbing is only beginning to be developed in the gorge, the route potential in the area is one that, I (and the site's main developer, Dane Schellenberg) believe, warrants a page; the gorge and the area surrounding it already have some sport routes and boulder problems, and there is a huge potential for big, multipitch trad routes. The gorge walls themselves are ~300 meters high of Gneiss rock; for those of you with a New England climbing sensibility, the walls are at least as high as the highest point of Cannon Cliff. During the rainy/monsoon season, there will be vegetation on the walls, but even then some lines are still climbable. In the dry season, however, opportunities for big multipitch routes will abound. The walls themselves wind through a gorge for multiple kilometers, so during the right season, there will be a huge supply of potential routes in the gorge proper.

Current development is spearheaded by Canadian expat and Squamish / Canmore climber Dane Schellenberg. Routes have been developed by Andrew Hedesh, Cody Millar, and Adam Kritzer. Bouldering in the area has been developed by those mentioned above along with myself (Ryder Stroud), Matt Krakowski, Carol Wong, Lily Zhang, Jisu Youn, and Andrew Ensign.

Shimenguan has not received much climber traffic, and even now the number of climbers who actively enter the area for development are essentially limited to those names mentioned above plus possibly a handful more climbers. What little information that has surfaced on the Internet does not seem to capture the full potential that Shimenguan has to offer; the primary draw of the area at this point is not its multitude of pre-existing routes, but the potential for such a tight cluster of different types of climbing: sport, trad, multipitch, and bouldering all coexist within the same area of the river gorge.

What this page is meant to do is to encourage those climbers who are used to climbing in classic, route-saturated areas to get out to new places like Shimenguan. There might even be a first ascent in there for you!

A Word on Development

Besides the sport routes and boulder routes that have been established, there is essentially an infinite supply of new routes and problems. Each trip back to the gorge, we discover more boulders and new lines that, with cleaning, could be stellar routes.

If you do plan to develop: You will definitely need to come prepared with equipment for cleaning a route (e.g. heavy wire brushes, nylon stepladders/etriers(you don't want to be hanging by a crimper while cleaning out part of a crack!), small trowel, and possibly plastic covers such as halves of water bottles to protect the gear you are hanging off of from the dirt you will likely knock down on it!)

REMEMBER: Bear in mind that climbing is new in China. Access tends to be a little sketchy, especially since (as it appears to me) Chinese culture is very risk averse (see the “Red Tape” section). Be tactful and respectful if you arrive to develop climbing routes. Patronize local businesses and build good relations with the locals. If they see climbers as a potential addition to their livelihoods, the locals will support more climbers coming into the area. Same thing goes for local ‘park officials,’ though the process with them is a bit more opaque (again, see the “Red Tape section).

Getting There

It is pretty much guaranteed that anyone headed to Shimenguan for the purposes of climbing will be coming from across continents or oceans. The most direct way to get into Shimenguan is to fly to the lakeside city of Dali, a trip that will usually entail a stop somewhere within China beforehand. Alternatively, you can fly into Yunnan’s provincial capital, Kunming, and catch a bus from Kunming West Bus Station (昆明西部车站)to Dali. Buses are quite frequent, leaving about every 20 minutes from the station from 7 am to 11 pm. There is also an overnight bus that leaves from downtown; the latter of the two choices will most likely feature a sleeper bus.

Buses will take you to Xiaguan (下关)which is the more touristy, developed region along Erhai Lake (洱海湖). You can opt to go to Shimenguan from there or base your operations out of Dali Old Town (大理古城)about 15 minutes north. The Old Town while having its touristy elements, feels less like the bizarre overdevelopment that is pervasive in larger Chinese cities.

Whichever location you choose, the final step to Shimenguan is a matter of calling a van driver and having him bring you to the entrance of the park; this part of the trip might be a little easier if you have a friend who is proficient at speaking Chinese. The van ride will be about 30-40 minutes long, depending on if your driver opts to take the local roads or the highway (the highway is far more preferable); some drivers will not want to take the highway because of the toll costs, but a little haggling over price and conditions will generally get the driver to take the highway,

There is only one road that leads up to the gorge itself, so after you check in with the ‘park rangers’ the driver should drop you off at the trailhead, which is located just after two small white farmhouses/buildings that also double as hotel rooms for tourists.

Head into the park and pick a line; there is a high chance that the stuff you are looking at has not yet been climbed!

Routes and Areas

Dane Schellenberg is currently compiling all of the ascent information to date and will be passing it on to me for design and formatting. The first cut of the book, as stated above, will be available soon.

Bear in mind that the guidebook will change quite frequently as more routes are added.

Current Sport Routes

Apprentice of Satan, 5.10a

BB Kuen Kuen Chu, 5.8

Blood Puke, 5.12c

Cherry Poppin', 5.10b

Donkey Schnitzel, 5.6

Dry Humping 5.10b

Flamingo Kid, 5.9

Kritz-arête, 5.11

Moxis on the Roof David, 5.11c

"Open Project," 5.12d

Red Beard's Choice, 5.10d

Roast Goat Parade, 5.7

So Long and Thanks for All the Bolts, 5.12a

Stolen Baba, 5.10c

The Gardeners of Eden, 5.11a

The Land of Laaa, 5.9

The Mysteries of Vulcan, 5.11b

WWSD, 5.10d

Where's the Peanut Butter, 5.10b

Established route and boulder problem topos coming soon

Some Project Photos